* * * Corey's Catsup & Mustard
623 Main St., Manchester, (860) 432-7755,
catsupandmustard.com

I think that Corey's Catsup and Mustard in Manchester deserves major points for not overplaying the knee-jerk soda-shop nostalgia kitsch that's so prevalent at just about every other boutique burger joint that's cropped up in recent years. We don't have to pretend we're at a sock hop or that we're extras on the set of American Graffiti in order to enjoy a cheeseburger and fries, thanks. Instead, Catsup and Mustard goes for more of a dimly lit barroom vibe, with exposed brick walls and cool little conical glass lamp shades suspending from the stamped tin on the high ceilings. Classic rock plays on the stereo. Sports on the flat-screens. It's a shotgun room, with a long bar running down about halfway to the back. There are some tables along one wall in the front section, and then more at the back. Pictures of smiling customers chomping into massive burgers adorn one wall. The waitstaff sports catsup- and mustard- and burger-themed shirts.

Lisa and I dropped in at what might normally be a slow, post-lunch-rush lull last week, but found the place to be humming along with activity. Some guys at the bar seemed like they might have been calling it quits for the day. Older couples gathered at the back. And families with toddlers found a spot in the corner. Corey's splits the difference between saloon charm and family-friendly atmosphere.

The menu is mainly a handful of burgers, wraps, soups and sandwiches, but it's not your average fare. The restaurant takes its name from Corey Wry, who grew up in Manchester and went on to culinary school at Johnson and Wales. Wry brings a foodie's touch to much of the menu. The offerings are playful, too, though, with one section of the menu seemingly devoted to other restaurants, including one honoring a restaurant that once occupied the same spot. It's a touching tribute.

A bowl of the house chili was plenty satisfying and hearty with ample ground beef and a few beans, but a touch of something — oregano? — gave it a surprising herby end note. And the crab and corn bisque succeeded by being generously loaded with crab meat and at the same time not falling into the trap of being so thick as to mask the silky texture.

They show their stuff with the burgers. A "7-napkin" burger sounds daunting, with peppercorn-seared double patties, BBQ brisket, bacon and more piled on a bun. Corey's also offers a "Good Morning" burger to start the day. It's a burger topped with a fried egg, avocado and cheese served on an English muffin.

Menus that succeed in the salesmanship department sometimes run the risk of disappointing when the expectations get excited. We ended up being slightly let down by the "Ole' El Paso," which made an impression as it arrived at the table with two fried jalapeno poppers skewered into the grilled brioche bun. Unfortunately the burger pattie was a little thin and sloppy, and the guacamole, salsa and chipotle didn't quite supply the heat as advertised.

Burger hounds should note, the fries need to be ordered separate (Corey's has several varieties — spicy Cajun, garlic-parmesan, and cool ranch, all of which are served in cute mini fry baskets). Though sandwiches come with crisp and tart dill pickles and a side of mayo-free slaw that you'll actually want to eat (a rare thing).

There was nothing but joy while munching on the "Pretzel Pastrami," a pastrami sandwich served on a grilled pretzel roll (I know, right!).

The menu might require a little exploration, but Corey's Catsup and Mustard clearly earns the local love it gets.

E-mail editor@hartfordadvocate.com